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Chassis:
1. First of all clean the bike off as clean as you can get it...
2. Clean, adjust and Lube the chain.
3. Tighten the spokes using the correct size spoke wrench.
- go over the entire bike for loose bolts (use blue loctite)
- Clean dirt out under the rubber bumper on Rear shock
- air up the tires
Motor:
- Change the Oil
- Adjust the valves
- Re-torque head bolts
- Clean foam Air filter and lube with light air filter oil
- check the spark plug
- if the Carburetor runs good do not mess with it!
10. make sure all vent hoses Carburetor and motor are clen and free of gunk.
- get rid of any moisture under the Ignition cover and clean any gunk out also
any suspension adjustment front or rear or service is something that is up to you to determine how often you preform it. (I do it once a month on my race bike) and race bikes I maintain.
How to service your Conventional forks (CRf 70) style
Step 1: Put your bike up on a stand to where the front end will hang off the floor. Then if you have a front drum brake remove the brake cable from the front brake lever. If you have a front disc brake remove the caliper from the caliper bracket and place a small wedge or piece of thick cardboard between the brake pads (this is so the caliper can not be mistakenly applied.
Step 2: Remove the front wheel loosen the axle remove it (pay attension to which side the wheel spacers go on) if the axle will not slide out easly then tap it out with a rubber mallet and and drift and set the wheel aside along with the brake drum and brake cable or the front brake disc
Step 3: now if you have disc brakes remove the caliper and let it just hang out of the way. also its good to remove the front number plate just so you have clear access to the all the bolts.
Step 4: now it a real good time to loosen the nut on top of the fork tubes on each fork as its a lot easier to loosen while they are held by the tripple clamps.
Step 5: use the correct size socket or wrench to loosen the left side of the upper top clamps (pinch bolts) and the lower bolt on the lower left side clamp (do one side at a time). now slide the fork tube out of the clamp and over to your work area.
Step 6: Now with one side off its time to take it apart , nows agood time to have someone else around to be able to hold the forks upright. but not nessesary. with the fork in the upright position on on the floor of your work area. remove the top nut off the top of the fork tube. remember the fork is spring loaded and has fluid inside.
Step 7: now with the Cap off the fork, place the complete fork assembly over a large bucket or Pan and pull the fork spring out of the fork tube... the bucket is there so you do not make a mess. Now set the spring aside on a clean towel (if your going to re-use it) or replacing the spring with aftermarket HD springs. now dump the remaining oil into the bucket or large pan, also what your going to want to do is Pump or (compress) the fork to extract the oil out continue till all oil is out.
Step 8: now fill the the tube with fork fluid (fork oil) I recomend 20wt and 100mm +/-2mm of air gap with the spring out (this is going to be anywhere from 3.5 ounces to 5.5 ounces depending on the forks) so start out with the lower amount and work you way up till you get the air gap. Do this with the fork tube compressed. Once you get the proper level and its set, slowly pump the fork tube to get the air bubbles out. once all the bubbles are out re-measure the air gap and if more fluid is needed do it now
Step 9: now extend the fork tube and slowly drop in the old or (new HD Spring). when the spring is in re-install the fork cap being very carefull not to compress the fork tube and spilling out the fork oil.
Step 10: Re-install the fork up into the fork clamps do not over tighten the bolts or pinch bolts ( 8-10 ftlbs of torque). also tighten the top nut cap once the tubes of the fork are tight in the clamps do not over tighten the fork cap!!!
Step 11: Repeat steps 5 through 10 to the right side fork tube
Step 12: put your front wheel back on make sure the spacers are on the correct side and torque the axle nut to 32ft lbs. put the brake caliper on the fork leg if you have disc set-up and or reconnect the front brake cable up to the brake lever.
Note: the Air Gap is the measurement from where the fork fluid level sits inside the fork tube in reference to the top of the fork tube. the distance between these two is the air gap
HOW TO SERVICE STAGGS / SSR INVERTED FORKS
The following oil weights and volume are general suggestions only. You may need to tweak your own combination to
achieve the best results for you style riding and weight.
Rider Weight Oil Weight Oil Volume per Leg
<100# 5wt 80cc
100-130 10wt 100cc
130-180 20wt 120cc
Big thanks to Kevin, aka. Precision50/OLDSCHOOL for providing the following tech write up.
Tools Needed:
6mm Allen wrench
5mm Allen wrench
(2) 17mm open end wrenches
15/16 low socket
Plastic bucket
Ratio Rite cup that has ml and cc's
Fork siphon or syringe
20wt synthetic fork oil I use Torco products
"Jeremiah Staggs" uses 80wt BelRay Gear Oil with anti shear additive this has the same consistency as
20wt fork oil and has anti-shear added.
*** I also use a Battery powered impact Gun....Because I can!
Here we Go:
(1) Start off by removing only one of your fork legs at a time. This is because some may get confused and
I like to allow for proper Fork height alignment when reinstalling.
(2) With Fork Leg Removed and in a Vertical position:
(3) Remove the top cap with a 15/16 standard short socket carefully "while it’s still vertical. with this done
and the top cap off slowly pull the cap up till about 6 inches of the spring is visible and let gravity drain
into a plastic bucket:
(4) after a few minutes take a clean rag and wipe the (2) Nuts off below the cap and draw a mark on both
nuts across from each other. This is to ensure that you get the correct height adjustment back to the
Metering Rod (Dampening Rod) back to the correct position to where you started with.
(5) Now take the (2) 17mm wrenches and unscrew the top cap from the spring assembly (counting the
number of turns you made past the marks on the nuts) and slowly separate the assembly (making sure
not to bend or damage the Dampening rod):
(6) Completely remove the rod and set it aside and (again do not drop or bend the rod) and let the rest of
the Fork assembly gravity drain into the plastic bucket for 5 min or so. Now take the fork leg while over
the Bucket and slowly pump the fork tube in and out and you will notice (where the dampening rod goes
in) the oil will drain out of it....and also the lower fork tube Do this many many time till no more oil comes
out. (don’t worry about the spring assembly falling out as its attached to the lower leg with a Allen bolt):
Next step is get the Fork oil and Ratio Rite cup and Syringe and pour (no more than between 75cc and
100cc of 20wt fork oil (150lb---200lb) riders also 15wt oil can be used also for less (120lb---150lb) riders
and play with the oil levels as needed add or subtract between 75cc and 100cc:
(7) Now with 99.9% of the used fork oil drained and the fork tube in the collapsed position and standing
vertical. Fill the Fork (siphon/syringe) and start adding fork oil to dampening rod tube:
Courtesy of Outlaw Powersports
And continue this till all (between 75cc----100cc) (150lb---200lb) of fork oil is used. this might take 3 or 4
times with the Syringe (DO THIS VERY SLOWLY AS NOT TO GET IT ALL OVER THE PLACE OR IN YOUR
EYES):
Now with the Fork tube assembly still Vertical give it a few minutes it will partially bleed itself of air
bubbles (not completely). Now carefully wipe down the Dampening rod and cap assembly and insert it
slowly down the Dampening tube. Now thread it back together counting the number of turns from
disassembly and tighten it back to the marks you made on the 2 nuts till they are opposite from each
other. And carefully use the 15/16 shallow socket to thread the top cap back to the fork tube so it looks
like this again:
(8) Now with the fork leg assembled I pumped it continuously in several different "Click" settings to help
Bleed the air from the forks (they will continue to bleed themselves) on your bike also
(9) Replace the fork tube back into your triple clamps and remember to Torque the bolts to proper specs.
And move on to the other fork Tube assembly.
*Note: while the Forks are apart you can continue to disassemble the spring and dampening tube
assembly and clean all the part and get ride of any excess oil. And upon reassembly of these parts
Remember to get the correct Height adj of the Dampening Rod, spring, Dampening Rod shaft and top cap
back to the correct Adj length.
CARB TUNING
Big thanks to Kevin, aka. Precision50/OLDSCHOOL for the following information.
This is general information on the Mikuni carbs found on the Chinese Import Pit
Bikes.
Most the Carbs use Mikuni (RS and HS) Main Jets and Pilot Jets
I believe a 15 pilot comes in them from the Factory go up to a 17.5
Pilots range from (15, 17.5, 20, 22.5 & 25) you will never need any bigger
Mains range from 60-100 and from 105-200 in increments of 2.5
Try a 17.5 pilot 100 main and turn the air screw in till its 1 turn
1) PLUG READING: You need to run the bike in as tall of a gear as you can and then kill the engine with
the throttle wide open. Don't idle the engine, now remove the spark plug and look at the INSULATOR, the
white porcelain part. As a rule it should look like coffee and cream (TAN). If it’s Dark brown or sooty black
your motor is running RICH. A gray ashy or white reading means its running LEAN. A plug reading only
gives you an overall view of how the motor is running.
Do this with a new plug and make sure your bike is warm first.
2) THE MAIN JET: The carbs main jet affects how the carb works from half to full throttle. After you have
made your test run with the stock jetting, install a main jet that is two sizes richer it will have a higher
number than you removed. Do your test run again & pay attention to how the bike feels. If your bike is
reluctant to REV out like before, then you are too rich. Now go back and install the next smaller main jet
keep doing this until you feel a noticeable improvement in power once you have the main jet set go on to
your pilot jet.
3) PILOT JET: The pilot jet has the greatest influence from idle to 1/4 throttle to test the pilot jet that is
two sizes richer (just like the main jet) now go out and test it pay attention to how it feels when you pull
out of the slow turns. If your bike is too rich it will feel sluggish and unresponsive until you are past 1/4
throttle a perfectly tuned pilot jet will help your bike accelerate off the line and out of corners. Repeat this
test until you get one that feels the best.
4) THE AIR SCREW: How to adjust it, with a warm engine bring the bike up to a steady throttle setting
(about 1800 RPM's) get a friend to hold the throttle steady......Once the engine is running at fast idle.
Turn the air screw in clockwise until the engine rpm drops. Then slowly turn the air screw out until engine
rpms pickup.....Stop turning the air screw once the RPM's reaches its peak. Peak rpm is when the engine
runs it's cleanest and fastest. The most common air screw adjustment is from 1/2 a turn to 2 turns out. If
your air screw is more than 2 turns out it is a warning that you should switch to the next LEANEST PILOT
JET....If the engine has peaked before turning a 1/2 turn out. Then switch to the next largest Pilot jet.....
5) NEEDLE JET: Your carbs needle affects throttle settings from 1/4 to 3/4 turns lucky you don't have to
replace the needle to adjust. Start out with the clip in the middle setting make a couple of runs, then
change the clip down two positions. This is the quickest and fastest improvement you can make to the
bikes jetting. Don't be afraid to move the clip up...LEANER or down...RICHER. You spend most of your
time riding in this range.
Try all clip positions on the needle see what runs the best.... If you find your clip position at the very top
or bottom. Then you need to go back to your main jet and pilot jet and make a different setting...
When all is done your clip should be in one of the three middle notches.
INSTALLING A IRK IGNITION
Depending on which one you have (China or Japan)
Tools you will need:
14mm socket if it’s a Honda based motor or 15mm if it’s GPX motor 17mm Socket
for flywheel puller.
Flywheel Puller
Thick Phillips bit for Impact driver
Impact driver
Removal Order:
1-Flywheel nut
2-Flywheel
3-(2) Phillips head screws on stator plate
4-Remove stator carefully
China Inner rotor:
Here’s where everything goes
- Green wire with (loop fitting) goes to Ground
- Green wire with horseshoe fitting goes to Green terminal on coil
- Yellow wire with horseshoe fitting goes to yellow terminal on coil
- Brown wire goes to white off the stator
- Red wire (has 2 connections) 1 is for Black wire off the stator the other is for a kill switch connection
Stator: has 1 (white wire) and (1) (Black) or (Black & red) wire
Black box (CDI Ignition):
- (1) (Green wire) that’s a ground wire
- (1) (White wire) that plugs into the White wire from stator
- (1) (Black & red wire) that has (2) connections (1) connection is for the (Black) or (Black and red wire)
- Next (2) wires should be (1) Yellow and (1) Red with Horseshoe connectors they go to the connections
The black box (CDI ign) has to be used with the IRK its has a Pre Programmed Ign with a Very high rev
limiter about 14,000 RPM and above also something to Pay very close attention too.... (On both china and
Japan kits) the stator plate can only install (Correctly) one way!!! Exciter coil on Left hand side and small
Pick-up will be on the right. 50% of the Stator plates have a (-) mark next to one of the mounting Hole
that must be at the top of the case when installing....
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